Surfin

Hello all you readers, I want to reveal that I am goofy footed. That is the right foot forward position on the surfboard. About 80% of surfers are "Naturals" and the other 20% are goofy footed. I think that is appropriate since the rest of me is goofy, too. I went to my surf lesson yesterday at south Piha beach. I wore my wetsuit that I got for last years open water swimming and used the surfboard that came with my lesson. My teacher, Anna Jolly, is a high school PE teacher and she reminds me of my friend,Suzy Wampler, somehow. She has been surfing all her life and is an excellent teacher. The weather was rugged and stormy for my first surf, with offshore wind creating "crumbly" waves. If the more preferable winds from the east were to be blowing the waves would be slow and curly. For two hours I worked at riding the white broken waves. One watches for an appropriate wave and when it is spotted turns around with back to it and hops quickly on the board. The board is waxed on the top to help the surfer to stick to it (contrary to ski wax which makes things slipperier). The wave zooms up behind you and you are paddling towards shore and when the wave thrusts you up and forward you push up with your arms and leap into position. The proper positioning is feet spread apart front one pointing forward along with the front hip. Both knees are bent. The back foot acts as a break and the front as accelerator. I really like surfing and its a good thing because I need a hell of a lot of practice!